My friend Jorge and went out and caught a few waves this afternoon. Getting the boards waxed up here. There's a long story behind my board. I picked it up in North Carolina when I was there framing beach houses. I took it with me to Illinois where I helped build a seed and grain processing plant, from there to Bozeman Montana, where I worked concrete, then Big Sky where I worked a night security at the ski resort. It's been all over with me, so many places I've lost count. I always carried it with me in the back of my truck or van, on my travels, all over the middle of the continent, through deserts, forests, mountains, and grasslands, thinking that someday I would make it back to one of the coasts and be able to surf again. I did finally make out to the San Francisco area. I spent time in Pacifica, Rockaway Beach, and a little farther north at Stinson Beach. I took the board back inland to the desert, Ridgecrest California, Las Vegas, and then to the middle of the continent with me to Colorado, Oklahoma, and Texas for a while. It's finally back out on where it belongs, on the west coast. That board's been with me on so many adventures. It's good to get back out on the water. There's an indescribable peace there.
